Finger Strength - Door Frame Pull ups - HELP :)

[cooksta]

@hollywood3307 This. I was a swimmer growing up - big muscles, weak tendons and ligaments. I picked up climbing at 30, bouldered V5 my first year, and boom, like clockwork, A2 pulley tear on ring finger trying to lock off on a crimp. It's a constant balancing act of stress and recovery for those of us who are athletes but didn't pick up climbing till well after puberty.

Go slow, it's worth the wait.

 

[conspiracy_center]

@cece_lee16 Please do your research. Fingers are relatively delicate and take time to “strengthen”. Start a repeater program and take lots of rest days. When you’re building fingers you’re really building the whole chain from tip to shoulder.

 

[hollywood3307]

@conspiracy_center Dude he hasn't even climbed a single fkin day. Repeaters are far too advanced. He should just climb for a half a year and not worry about repeaters, beastmaker-apps or any other hangboarding Protocol.

Being able to do some calisthenics stuff doesn’t prepare your body for the intensity bouldering or climbing inevitabily puts on your fingers.

 

[conspiracy_center]

@hollywood3307 I’m with you

 

[jumpz]

@cece_lee16 Hate to break it to you but the secret method climbers use to train finger strength is ...climbing. I recommend you either pick up climbing/bouldering as a hobby and just go with the flow or you coule keep doing your thing but then don't get worried if you don't progress within 3 weeks. Tendons and bones adapt to stress wayyy slower than muscles.

 

[cece_lee16]

@jumpz appreciate the good response thanks

 

[stephanieloves2]

@cece_lee16 (Climber) The finger position is called half crimp and you need to train that specifically. Try 3 sets of 30 seconds on 3 minutes rest, pulling consistently in the half crimp position as much of your weight as you can.

 

[marcia838]

@stephanieloves2 Hang on this guy is STARTING to climb next week and your going to get him to train half crimps already? That's an injury waiting to happen I'm afraid (with all due respect)

 

[mariauk]

@marcia838 It's always possible, but after a week of doing v0-v2 he'll be crimping to try and send v3's. Half crimp isn't terrible, just don't want anyone advocating for him to full crimp, that's the tendon destroyer for new guys.

 

[marcia838]

@mariauk I would argue there are plenty of gains to be made just by climbing as a beginner. Climbing + training is a lot of stress on the finger/elbow tendons, which take time to make gains. But fair enough, I don't hate your opinion either. Take care and listen to your body OP.

 

[georgesblog]

@marcia838 Can OP try to pull as much of their weight as possible while hanging on the door and standing on something, like using the legs as some sort of resistance band? (not a climber at all. so if this is terrible advice downvote me to hell)

 

[marcia838]

@georgesblog There's logic to that but ideally you would just work down from a bigger edge. That would be a more traditional approach.

 

[hollywood3307]

@marcia838 Dude you did the best you can do. OP himself and the majority of the advice will send him straight into tendon pop city.

OP already bought a beastmaker despite not having been climbing or bouldering once, it really is doomed man. Let’s just be there when he asks for tendon rehab in 4 weeks from now. :/

 

[cece_lee16]

@hollywood3307 lol .. DW i'm not using beastmaker .. had it for years never fixed it to a wall ! .. I'll go bouldering and enjoy myself !

 

[myaccount1]

@georgesblog This is actually a substantial part of building climbing strength. The best climbers learn to use their legs well--because they have larger muscles and are used to supporting our body weight. If you train through climbing, everything is balance with leg strength. That being said, a lot of climbing-specific training will focus on grip endurance and upper body strength because that takes the longest to build up (and maintain).

 

[stephanieloves2]

@marcia838 Okay? That's not his question. He wants to do pull ups on his door frame not start climbing?

 

[hollywood3307]

@stephanieloves2 He said that he is about to regularly go to a bouldering gym.

 

[stephanieloves2]

@marcia838 Lol what? How do you expect to strengthen fingers without training them? He obviously already has some strength in his fingers and is experienced in callisthenics. There's no reason he can't start doing density hangs.

 

[hollywood3307]

@stephanieloves2 This is what you get wrong. I've been in the same place as op before I started bouldering and there is almost no carry over from general pulling strength to the very specific finger strength.

Like even the easiest rungs on my portable hangboard would blast OP's and other calisthenics guys fingers as hanging on a bar no matter how long may strengthen your forearm but there is almost no stimulus for the tendonds or ligaments to grow in a way that’s required in climbing or bouldering.

Your advice goes completely against what is the bottom like in climbing, which is NO MATTER how strong you think you are, climb or boulder 3 times a week for at least half a year and THEN start to carefully hangboard.

If he wants to go bouldering from next week on he should just do that to train his fingers and not, I repeat NOT start hangboarding before he even climbed, it makes on sense on the gains side as just climbing will be sufficient and he'll Risk to just end up like so many other people that blew their tendonds because they thought they’re special bEcAuSe ThEy cAn HaNg fRoM a bAr aNd Do mUsClE uPs.

 

[stephanieloves2]

@hollywood3307 Lol anyone can hangboard as long as you do it properly. Slowly increasing load and not overloading. Quickest way to strengthen tendons is to train them directly. Yes you are more prone to injury but no it's not impossible to do.