Two vegans cycling 800km through Spain - Camino de Santiago - Camino Del Norte

[baselinezone1]

https://preview.redd.it/jggq53la9sg...bp&s=08347de6f62f97fcb2f74fcfd2cf1ec367d55d0b

3 minute video:

30 minute video:

edit: links

My wife and I just returned from a cycling trip through Spain on the Camino Del Norte, the northern route of the Camino de Santiago. Our bodies transformed from floppy noodles as full-time students sitting sedentary for most of the year, to pretty decently toned at the end of the two weeks trip. Video shows the progression and some fun meals along the way.

Spain is not very vegan friendly, but the trip was very doable as a vegan. We sustained well and there were some very friendly chefs who took great care of us. Hope you enjoy! If you have any questions about bike-packing, hit us up!

 

[samjtomes]

@baselinezone1 Thanks for sharing! I've been seeing stuff about the Camino de Santiago everywhere this week, and I'm starting to think it's a sign I need to go! Any recommendations on specific places to stay/eat as a vegan? What towns had decent grocery stores?

 

[magazine1]

@samjtomes Spaniard here. You have plenty of vegetables and legumes in every place. Greengroceries everywhere. In some supermarkets you can easyly find other vegan products as tofu, edamame or seitan (I recomend Mercadona, they are ubiquous).

Despite of that, restaurants are the real pain in the neck. They ususally don't have any especific options for vegans. I usually end up having salads, soups, rice dishes... Unless you find some especific vegan restaurant, wich is easyer in big cities.

 

[baselinezone1]

@magazine1 That's true, they are everywhere, and that is what we ate. It was wonderful, we especially had a great time in the cities of the Basque Country. Mind blowing vegan restaurants and fruits/veggies everywhere you look. The rest of the northern route took some effort relative to Basque Country and other countries I've traveled.

The caveat is descanso hours, the fruterias are closed from 1-4pm, and then only the restaurants are open. The restaurant kitchens close at 4pm and don't open again until 8pm. I got lucky on occasion by calling around to check hours. Many chefs were very friendly and happy to make vegan options like steamed potatos (patatas al vapor), salads, but that was about it in the countryside. Unfortunately, many chefs and waiters almost seemed to be offended that we asked for vegan food or simple plant-based dishes of rice and beans, and when I mentioned vegano, they sometimes gave a condescending look - mostly in the countryside. One waiter even walked away from us. A pension host was yelling at her husband "They don't eat anything!!!" - thinking that we didn't speak spanish

The grocery stores were distant stops on the Norte, and required careful planning to manage weight-load and nutrition.

Lidl and Aldi were lifesavers to carry pates, tofu, bread, olives, fruits, veggies like carrots, canned beans. They even had organic options! I think we did stop at one or two Mercadonas! Thanks for the tips!

 

[samjtomes]

@magazine1 Thank you so much for the advice

 

[baselinezone1]

@samjtomes Thanks! Fully recommend the trip. San Sebastian was vegan heaven, especially Mapa Verde and Km.0. At Santiago de Compostela, we enjoyed ClemCafe and ice cream at Bico De Xeado.

There's a few routes you can take, as you are likely aware. The Frances route is more common and vegan friendly, but we ate well on the Norte with some effort.

You can find good grocery stores in any bigger town on the trip, and they will have tofu, spreads, freshly baked bread, and tasty veggies. On the Frances, you may not need to find grocery store unless you prefer, as there are many food carts to cater to pilgrims with cheap menus. The groceries are much cheaper than in the states. Eating out was much cheaper too, and often much better. It feels safe to generalize that Spain has amazing chefs!

We began from Irun, first meal at a cafe called K2 with an amazing Pilgrim's menu. It was a great start to the trip with a savory bowl of lentil soup.

 

[picox25]

@baselinezone1 What an incredible journey, congrats on the accomplishment! Cycling 800km is no joke! And great video also!

 

[baselinezone1]

@picox25 Thanks it was a ton of fun!

 

[mommabird]

@baselinezone1 I know I'm late here but how did you find enough food? I plan on walking the camino norte next year, I've read that resturants are mostly a no no so I might just make most of my own food and then buy bread+nuts. Kinda sucks missing out on the social part of eating but whatever.

 

[baselinezone1]

@mommabird Hey! We HAD to carry food otherwise we would have starved, but don't let that dissuade you, there are unforgettable restaurants along the Norte. Most albergues and hostels have kitchens so we asked to use them and got to chat with other guests. Also several hostels had vegan dinners by chance, everyone ate vegan without knowing it!

Our reliable food was grocery stores for a pate spreads like hummus, babaganoush, or a can of mixed beans/vegetables. We always carried bread and nuts. And there was fruterias in every town.

We found that asking around at several restaurants, there are some friendly chefs who were willing to make steamed potatoes 'potatoes al vapor'. It helps if you speak spanish

Also, you can get a prepaid sim card from Orange for cheap like $15-20. We used that with happy cow and searching vegan/vegetarian on google.

There was a surprising amount of vegan-friendly places on the route. We carried food to make sure we had something to eat, and ate out as a backup plan. You will find stretches where there is nothing, so be prepared with bread, veggie spread, tomato sauce, canned mixed veggies, etc. It took some planning, but we got used to it quick and got in a rhythm.

IF you have other Qs hit us up any time!